One of my favourite fashion shows at London Fashion Week was the one presented by Roksanda Ilincic. For her autumn/winter 2016 collection, she explores poetic femininity with a dark undercurrent seen in the atmospheric photographs of Deborah Turbeville, and cult film The Night Porter.
Whimsical hand-drawn illustrations repeat throughout, comprised of dreamy motifs of women, moons, stars, faces, cats, hearts and swirls making up a fantasy print on silk and in devore. Precise suiting and a rich colour palette give a nod to the 1970s. The mix of colours is amazing: petrol, burgundy, tobacco, Damask pink, Midnight navy, Optic white, aqua, jade, turquoise and black.
Classic tailoring is realised in velvet with contrast piping and illustrative printed lining, while cotton shirting is given added flair with asymmetric draping. Androgynous sensuality is hinted at in lightweight separates and elegant relaxed-form dresses. Blouses of silk satin and luxurious hammered silk are given feminine touches with bows and rounded, velvet collars. Exaggerated frills, ruffles and sun-ray pleating add shape to collars and cuffs. Knitwear is realised in shimmering lurex and soft cashmere. Outerwear is tailored in double-faced wool and fluffy in mid-length shearling. Embroidery on tulle is intricate in chain-stitch ornate swirls.
VIDEO: FASHION SHOW ROKSANDA FALL/WINTER 2016
ROKSANDA FALL WINTER 2016
Photos: Courtesy of Roksanda
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